Mike,
Actually you are correct. Cutting through a cured urethane sealant after  
it's cured is darn near impossible. However, in my personal opinion that's  
exactly what I want to use. I hate working on the darn boat, I'd rather be out  
drinking, er....sailing.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 3/7/2008 5:49:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
R22RumRunner at aol.com writes:

Mike,
I thought the whole idea of rebedding a port is so that you  will never have  
to do it again?

Rummy.........that first  drink tasted so good, I think I'll have  
another.....and then  another.....


In a message dated 3/7/2008 5:26:22 P.M. Eastern  Standard Time,  
mweisner at ebsmed.com writes:

Ed,

I also  assumed Boat Life Seal Sealant (BLSS).  It is  part polyurethane and  
part silicone.  Be careful with the use of  urethance sealants  on portlights 
since they will never release if  rebedding or  replacement is required.  The 
plastic frames will be  destroyed  in the effort.

The problem that you speak of is most often  seen  with silicone materials 
which are really only good as gaskets.    They don't stick to much of 
anything 
for long.  The BLSS seems  to  have gotten around this problem, although when 
rebedding  portlights, it is  mostly used as a gasket material.  In addition, 
 
the epoxy repair  should not be exposed to the sealant in this  application. 
I have used  epoxy to repair the damage to the wood core  from water 
intrusion 
due to  previous sealant failure.  The  epoxy is below the surface (in the  
holes) for these repairs.   The BLSS is exposed to the gel coat and  the 
plastic of the portlight  frame.

BTW, as I have indicated,  preparation is most important -  DO NOT SKIP THE 
ACETONE CLEANING  STEP.  Placing sealant on a  waxed surface will never 
result 
in good  adhesion.

Mike
s/v  Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
Nissequogue River,  NY

From: "Tootle"  <ekroposki at charter.net>Sent: Friday, March 07,  2008 5:07  PM

>
> The term Life Seal Sealant was used in the  discussion  of leaky ports under
> the subject heading of Tangent Topping  Lift  Question.  Can I presume that
> the sealants correct name is   Boat Life Sealant?
>
> I tried to use that Boat Life in the   cockpit drain a couple of years ago.
> It did not hold up.  At  the  direction of a professional roofer on this 
> forum
> I  used one  part urethane roofing sealant.  It worked as he told  me.  I 
>  also
> used it on my project boat  rebuild.  The stuff works and  comes in many
> colors.   The brand name Rummy referred me to was  HP-1.
>
> The  problem that the Boat Life seemed to have was  adhering to the  epoxy
> repair.  I had used Boat Life for years  just as a  sealant, but it did not
> want to stick permanently to the  epoxy  repair area.  That repair was with
> the West System   products.  Also, the repair was made about this time of
>  year,  maybe a few weeks later when it was just warm enough.  I  waited 
>  until
> epoxy repair was fully  cured.
>
> You might be able  to do it in one day about June  21st.
>
> Ed K
> Greenville,  SC, USA
> “It is  not the critic who counts, not the man who points out  how the 
>  strong
> man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could  have done  better. The 
> credit
> belongs to the man who is  actually  in the arena, whose face is marred by
> dust and sweat and  blood,  who strives valiantly, who errs and comes short
> again and  again,  who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, and
>  spends  himself in a worthy cause, who at best knows achievement and who   
at
> the worst if he fails at least fails while daring greatly so  that  his 
> place
> shall never be with those cold and timid  souls who  know neither victory 
> nor
> defeat.”   Theodore  Roosevelt
>
>
> -- 
> View this message  in context:  
>   
http://www.nabble.com/Leaky-Ports---question-on-sealant%27s-name...-tp15907466
p15907466.html
>   Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at  Nabble.com.
>
>   __________________________________________________
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