2008-03-08; 07:34:04 EST
Member Since
2002-09-17
Posts: 4946
Ed and Elle, One thing I remember from the one port that I redid, is that the sides of the R22 are not the same shape as the port. The sides on the R22 have a curvature to it where the ports are as straight as can be. I think it was this realization that made me use the urethane. I knew it was going to be hard to get a good seal and I didn't want to do it again. Rummy In a message dated 3/8/2008 7:19:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ekroposki at charter.net writes: Elle & Fred: Alcohol is a solvent. Can be used to thin epoxy slightly, can be used to clean tools that get sticky, can be used like acetone to clean surfaces. It is non hazmat cleaner, whereas Acetone is hazmat and requires gloves. There is a cleaning product for projects like this called TA 661. It is an alcohol based cleaner that is solvent-free (solvents are the hazmat stuff). This stuff is available only by mail order from: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/ (companies home page) http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=epoxy&product=.Misc.+products& cart_id=4174102.22626&user-id=&password=&exchange=&exact_match=exact (this is where you page down until you find 661) If you use the Boat Life Product, and it does not work the first time, it is an adhesive and not a glue/cement as is Rummies product. That means that if it does not do the job, you can always go back and redo the other way. Whereas using the stuff that Rummy recommends is like using 5200, permanent, but keep in mind, Rummy’s business is leaks. Do not use 5200 like boat builders do, and that is not just you know who. It can only theoretically be separated. Been there, done that. Too difficult for average person to do. About every 6 months, I post this site as one of the best for how to do it knowledge: http://westsystem.com/ewmag/ Subscribe to their mailing list and usually about one a year the send out an informative magazine worth reading if you are into fixing boats. Ed K Greenville, SC, USA Raisin: Grape with a sunburn Mike: In today's world there are 'no blush' epoxies. That is technical jargon for not leaving a wax residue. It is a big fighting point between the epoxy sellers these days. In addition to your acetone rinse, there is also scuffing with light abrasives. A former member of this forum, a.k.a, Roger P., also a chemical engineer who at that time was big into the technical properties of epoxies explained the mechanical adhering methods of epoxies. I have also been around the 5200 circle. That is why 3M developed 4200. My situation was done initially following 'all' my expert advisors. (I have Don Casey's book, and a few more, Hankinson's, Robert's.) I had to rebuild the glass work around the thru hull and redrill the thru hull hole. The boat life lasted a few weeks and I had to pull the boat and clean it down to the epoxy reinforced with glass mat repair. After cleaning area with 'acetone', I reinstalled the thru hull and used Rummy's Roofing Cement. It worked and still works after several on and off the trailer. Now we have the development of the flexible epoxies. Ah, more to learn. Ed K -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Leaky-Ports---question-on-sealant%27s-name...-tp15907466p15912866.html Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.See the original archive post