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R22RumRunner at aol.com
centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj
2008-10-29; 05:56:59 EDT
Member Since
2002-09-17
Posts: 4946
Saroj, Silicone is silicone no matter where it comes from. Just read the label and make sure it will stand up to constant contact with water...... Rummy In a message dated 10/28/2008 5:57:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, saroj at pathfind.net writes: Is that just plain ole Silicon II from Lowes? I notice that West Marine charges 3 times as much for the same stuff that I can get at Lowes. Thanks SarojSee the original archive post
----- Original Message ----- From: <R22RumRunner at aol.com> To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 5:47 PM Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj > Saroj, > Silicone sealant was made to be used in a compression gasket, so it is the > perfect thing for your gasket seal. You will want to hand tighten the > bolts and > then starting in the middle, siz zag back and forth from side to side > working towards the ends. This will assure that you have equal pressure > in all > areas and no lumps in the middle. > > Rummy > > > In a message dated 10/28/2008 3:08:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > lsr3 at nyu.edu writes: > > Saroj > > Yes I am the one who posted the article with Roger on the Owner's site. > when I finally get MySpace page up it will have more pics of the job. > > insofar as tightening or torquing the bolts so that no leak occurs I > will say that its one of the most important jobs before launcing. > My CB is still a work in progress so I will pull it after just > sailing the first 3 months after working on the boat for 4yrs.. Only > to check the > pivot and examine my trunk. My board gave me absolutely no problem > and Im pulling the boat out Friday, God willing. > > Ok for the threading I truly believe that the pennant line should be > connected through its hole then treaded to two mini blocks or > something that functions as such on the cap. You are saying below > that your line starts from a "small U bracket fore of the foremost > block on the cap". For a true mechanical advantage in this small > area to work I think you need 2 blocks on the board and two on the > cap. Btw if you research the archives you will see a few pictures > of how the board is supposed to be threaded. I completely ripped > out what makeshift things I had when i looked inside and installed > Harken Mini blocks which are really not that expensive. I made a > Ushaped bracket to hold my dual mini block Harken which attaches to > the inside of my cap with 2 1/4x20 bolts. > > Last June I made the mistake of using 5200 and got too much on the > pennant. I had to re install the board again ( one day wasted) and > used Silicone sealant from Boatlife. Just make sure you protect the > pennant from any sealant with a light plastic wrap from your > kitchen. I also bought a new Neoprene gasket and punched holes . > This fall I intend to re use the neoprene if possible by soaking the > gasket in mineral spirits for a few days. > > As Ed said 5200 is for permanent things on the boat. Not the CB > gasket or the cap as you should look at it every few years on a good > boat. > good luck > Lou > > > > On Oct 28, 2008, at 2:27 PM, Saroj Gilbert wrote: > >> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy, Lou, >> >> Thanks all for the info. Based on what I've read, I'm going to >> replace all >> the screws with bolts. >> >> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with Roger in 2005-2006? >> When you >> say "torque" are you implying you actually used a torque wrench or >> just as a >> euphemism for "tightened"? >> >> My centerboard lift line has a different configuration from that in >> the >> article I referenced above. It starts from a small U bracket fore >> of the >> foremost block on the cap. Since the blocks on the CB were broken >> I don't >> know how it was threaded below, but it seems to have gone from that >> loop >> thru the highest block on the CB, back up to the the foremost block >> on the >> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the lower block on the >> CB (2-3 >> inches below the other one) then up thru the aft block on the cap >> which acts >> as a fair lead, then thru the hole and nipple for the lift line. >> It seems >> that there should be another block lower down on the CB to give an >> extra >> mechanical advantage and more pull on the extreme, but I never had any >> trouble raising or lowering the CB before the break. >> >> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to use. The guy at West Marine >> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it is essentially an adhesive like >> 5200, >> just not as permanent. Lou, what did you use? Seems like an >> underwater >> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well. I've never had any >> trouble >> with leaking, but I might as well do it right while its apart. I >> would >> consider changing the gasket but it appears to be in very good >> condition. >> >> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past 4 years, so >> Pathfinder has >> been on the hard in my back yard during that time. It wasn't worth >> paying >> the slip fees when I didn't have time to use it. We're replacing >> the mast >> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I lost the steaming/ >> deck >> light when a branch fell on it. I'm replacing the anchor light >> with an >> incandescent, but the steaming/deck light with LED. Figure that >> will help >> the battery charging life, and will be installing a solar panel for >> trickle >> charge. >> >> All of the brightwork needs sanding & varnishing and have to clean >> up some >> sap on the deck. Washed all the lines and the sails and she is >> just about >> back to sailing condition. She still looks great even at her >> advanced age >> of 24 years! >> >> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work (screens, varnish, >> polishingetc.) >> over the next year; but we're hoping to get a few sails in before >> winter >> "really" gets here, although the way things are going that may be >> optimisitc. Monday afternoon it was delightful sailing weather. >> Today it >> is windy and cold... unseasonably for this region. >> >> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond a few years ago (Rob, was that >> you?), but I >> haven't run into any Rhodes owners in the Tidewater region. I'm >> living in >> Hampton now. >> >> Thanks all for your well wishes and the great information to help >> us get >> this project completed. >> >> Saroj >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at nyu.edu> >> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? >> reply to >> Saroj >> >> >> Rik >> >> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my cap. I prefer to tighten the nut under >> the cap using a closed end wrench with >> my electric driver and the correct wide phillips bit in place. Do a >> criss cross pattern like lacing up boots >> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the phillips bit and >> just hold the nut in place with the same closed end wrench (7/16") >> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts. >> >> Ive overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk and board including >> the mechanical advantage >> >> Lou >> sv Miracles >> >> >> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote: >> >>> Rik, >>> It takes really small hands and a second person. I recommend using an >>> electric driver or you will be spending the better part of a day >>> installing all of >>> them. I have never seen screws used on the trunk cap. >>> >>> Rummy >>> >>> >>> In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >>> sanderico1 at gmail.com writes: >>> >>> Ed, >>> >>> I have to ask, how would you use through bolts on the centerboard >>> cap of >>> an R22?? I can't imagine how you are going to hold the nuts to >>> tighten them. >>> >>> Rik >>> >>> Will Rogers often said, "There's nothing quite like money in the >>> bank." He >>> went on to say, "I'm not so concerned about the return on my money >>> as I am >>> about the return of my money." >>> >>> >>> >>> Tootle wrote: >>>> Saroj: >>>> >>>> As to sealants, do not use 5200 like some boat builders. It is >>>> called >>>> sealant but it is permanent and prevents future repair, >>>> painting, etc. >>>> >>>> I recommend a sealant that says for under water use. 3M 4000 or >>>> 4200 are >>>> numbers I can think of quickly. Go to the 3M website and see >>>> which one is >>>> for underwater use. (I know the cap is not underwater, except at >>>> times) >>>> >>>> Another popular product is Boat Life Sealant, not Boat Life Caulk. >>>> >>>> As to silicone products, make sure it says for underwater use. >>>> Silicone >>> II >>>> is said to be the better formulation of silcone sealants. >>>> >>>> I would not go to Lowes. Go to any dockside marine store or if >>>> you have to >>>> the high dollar 'West Marine'. It would be better to pay the few >>>> extra >>>> schekels at West to get a quality product. >>>> >>>> As to screws and bolts, Stan uses a million bolts at the shop. >>>> Maybe older >>>> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to thru bolts, all one >>>> million of >>>> them. Also, after you tighten all the first time, go around a >>>> second time >>>> and maybe a third. A small 1/4" rachet works for this job. If >>>> you do not >>>> have one, head for Sears and get a Craftsman set. >>>> >>>> It is good to see your post. Are in in contact with any other >>>> 'Tidewater' >>>> Rhodies? >>>> >>>> Ed K >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Saroj Gilbert wrote: >>>> >>>>> any chance I can ask a question about the Rhodes22? LOL... >>>>> >>>>> my centerboard would not raise or lower so friend and I took the >>>>> cap >>>>> apart; found that the blocks had broken off the CB; scraped, >>>>> sanded, and >>>>> painted the inside of the cap, the well and the CB (all >>>>> encrusted with >>>>> barnacles). We have it put back together except for the cap >>>>> which has the >>>>> gasket which was already there... appears in pretty good >>>>> shape. We >>>>> modified some blocks which was challenging since the attachment >>>>> area is so >>>>> small. Also did some fiberglass repair on the CB and the keel. >>>>> >>>>> Two questions: >>>>> >>>>> - most of the holes had screws but some had bolts... I assume >>>>> that an >>>>> earlier owner had stripped out the screw holes. Is it likely >>>>> that reusing >>>>> the screws will provide sufficient pressure to prevent leaks or >>>>> should we >>>>> go to the trouble of replacing all with bolts... I'd prefer not >>>>> because >>>>> there are so many, but I don't want leaks obviously. >>>>> >>>>> - what sealant should we use? I took off the old sealant which >>>>> was a blue >>>>> colored rubbery substance that came off pretty easily from both >>>>> sides. >>>>> Roger's instructions said to use silicone. Is there a >>>>> particular type or >>>>> any old stuff from Lowes? If we use silicon, do we need to let >>>>> it cure a >>>>> little before clamping down 100% to give it a chance to cure? >>>>> (seems to me >>>>> it requires air to start the curing process). Has anyone used >>>>> RTV... >>>>> overkill for this application? >>>>> >>>>> I have searched and searched for the tech info material that was >>>>> created >>>>> and organized years ago with no luck. Can someone give me a URL >>>>> for it or >>>>> does it no longer exist? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, Saroj >>>>> __________________________________________________ >>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list >>>>> go to >>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list >>>>> __________________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> __________________________________________________ >>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list >>> go to >>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list >>> __________________________________________________ >>> >>> >>> **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! 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