Chris.
It is possible that you might be able to attach any new wires to an
existing wire and pull it through. To much forethought would have to go into such
an operation for me to try it. I adhere to the KISS system.
Rummy
In a message dated 7/19/2010 3:06:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
napoli68 at charter.net writes:
Rummy,
You have a point on your concerns, but what the heck I'll just make sure I
don't have to add or replace any wires. (don't ask how). It might be
interesting this fall to see if I can make a small channel in the foam
bulkheads. The holes do no measurable harm I think to the mast. I agree
it
is weird to drill any holes, kinda of hard to undo.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
R22RumRunner at aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 11:14
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] silencing internal mast cable slap
Sorry Chris, but this is one idea I can't agree with. A 30' drill bit is
not controllable. I still like the foam pipe insulation the best. I also
don't like drilling holes into a very expensive piece of extruded
aluminum.
Rummy
In a message dated 7/19/2010 2:08:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
napoli68 at charter.net writes:
Ah Rummy,
That was a concern (right after doing the job). For $7.50 on sale at
Harbor freight tools, I got a 3/16 fiberglass wire running kit. Attached
a
1/4 inch drill bit and tested the concept on the tomato can lump of foam.
Just manually, it was an easy "drill", probably fix it to work on the
cordless drill too.. Phew! panic solved or at least delayed.
The pieces make a rod 30 feet long, so long enough to do the job.
Chris G
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
R22RumRunner at aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 04:14
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] silencing internal mast cable slap
Chris,
So what will you do when you need to replace or add any wires?
Rummy
In a message dated 7/19/2010 1:49:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
napoli68 at charter.net writes:
Hey Mike,
The cable slap was driving me nuts last year. My solution was to
measure the diameter of the nipple on a can of instafoam drill one size
larger hole into the bottom of an empty tomato can and "test" how much
came
out in a second or two when I pressed the nipple into the hole. Once I
established the volume released for the time With the mast laid down I
drilled a series of holes on the front of the mast about 4-5 feet apart.
Stuck the foam can into the holes for the right amount of time (about
1.5
seconds) and easily and quickly solved the problem. The advantage of
this
method is that I also compartmentalized the mast so should I ever take a
really bad knockdown and put the mast under the water (only happened
once
so
far to me) I won't have the void where the wires are take up the extra
weight in water. This last trip no wire slap. (did have a little IMF
tube
rattle, but haven't figured out how to fix that). Hopes this helps.
Chris G
Enosis
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mike Cheung
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 15:57
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] silencing internal mast cable slap
I read here that folks have used pipe insulation to silence the "cable
slap"
from the cables running inside the mast. I just put two 6' sections of
insulation onto the radio and masthead light cables, but that's all I was
able to push on. I think that the insulation is hanging up on the bolt
for
the spreaders. I imagine that if I pull that bolt I'll be able to push
more
insulation up the mast.
My question is: Is it worth it to pull the spreader bolt or is what I've
got
in there so far (about 12' of insulation) enough to end the cable slap?
As you can tell, I'd prefer to not pull the spreader bolt if I don't
need
to.
Thanks!
-----
Mike Cheung
s/v Muireann 1993/2008 Rhodes 22
--
View this message in context:
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