2012-05-09; 11:33:22 EDT
Member Since
2002-09-17
Posts: 4946
I hate mud daubers. They will fill any tiny little crevice they can find. Fortunately they don't sting unless you provoke them. Only the females build the nests and provision them with their eggs and spiders for the young to feed on. I've found that they don't like the loud sound from my stereo. That's probably why I see so few. :) I have a 9.8 Tohatsu four stroke I could use temporarily, but it weights twice as much as the 2 stroke and I'm getting to old to man handle a 100 pound motor around the transom of a boat. I guess I'll just use the 2.5 Tohatsu or an electric trolling motor until I finish my repairs. Rummy In a message dated 5/9/2012 9:30:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rlowe at vt.edu writes: Rummy, That's pretty good record. Note that your repairs had nothing to do with 4 vs. 2 stroke. You just happen to have a heck of a good motor. I finished repairing my 2003 Yamaha 4 stoke motor last week. It came with my new(er) boat but had been sitting on the hard for three years. I rebuilt the carburetor and water pump as a precautionary measures and both needed it. The carb was all gunked up and a good cleaning and rebuild fixed it and the water pump had sand(!) in it and a rebuild was needed. The vane had started to deteriorate at this point. About $75 in parts at this point. I believe I reported that my lower unit leaked oil when filled and was filled with the same milky stuff you described when I drained it. Over my pay grade as this point so I took it to a mechanic would said it appeared the seal around the shift lever had gotten dislodged, possibly by having water freeze in the unit. Either that or mechanic malfunction (me). I'm blaming in on the freezing water. Anyway, he charged me $75 for his trouble. What was really surprising was to find the prop was all bent up and had to be replaced. I guess the PO had run aground somewhere, which probably explains the sand in the water pump. Probably sucked it in when he hit sand. Another $80 for the prop. So I've got it all together and started it in my driveway using earmuffs to provide cooling water. Now water is just spitting out the pee hole instead of a good steady stream. I'm wondering about the water pump job at the moment and if I need to take it apart and revisit it. Instead, I pull off that water discharge line from the fitting in the case and it runs fine. This is also the first time I realize the water pump is also the fuel pump. Interesting. I guess there are two water pumps? The one that is on the lower unit and one part of the fuel pump? Anyway, I find a pipe cleaner and clean out the pee hole. Damn mud dobbers have been at work. Now the motor is peeing as it should. I declare motor fit for service! So I'm out about $230 at this point and have a well running motor. I think my point is anyone with the right skills and tools and a very good parts diagram or service manual can do basic maintenance and repairs on their motors. But I'm like you, I'm leaving the lower units to the experts. - rob S/V (no name)See the original archive post