David,
 
I had the same thing happen to me about fifteen years ago with the  rudder 
edge. I waited until winter and let the rudder dry thoroughly in my house  
(I actually put it in our sauna for several hours). I then used ground up  
fiberglass mat and epoxy to fill the voids. I sanded that smooth and then 
added  two layers of fiberglass cloth, about six to eight inches wide, over all  
the edges, sanded and repainted the rudder. I haven't had any problems 
since. Be  careful not to change the thickness of the rudder in any contact 
areas, such as  where the bolts go though the rudder head and pivot point or you 
will be sanding  to bring it back to spec. If I remember correctly I also 
filled the pivot point  hole and then drilled it out once it hardened. I've 
been known to overkill on  projects, but I don't like having to redo 
something once I've already done  it.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2012 12:46:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chsyhkr at gmail.com writes:

I  learned a few other things about my boat on my trip last weekend.

When  using the head, crack open the plate between the bow and holding  
tank.
Pressure can build up in the tank splashing you when you  flush.........

My rudder has a few cracks along the edges.  When  first submerged it
bubbles.  I doubt this is a good thing for the long  term health of the
rudder.  I do trailer so it does dry out.
I  expect to remove it in the fall,  clean, seal, and repaint and  install
back next spring.  Thoughts?

--  
Regards,

David B. Craft
Greensboro,  NC

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