You sure know how to open up a can of worms. Which genny you get is  
strictly a personal choice and it depends a lot on where you plan on sailing  her. 
I sail on Lake Hartwell, an inland lake and prefer the 175. Those that sail 
 on the ocean where the winds are pretty steady prefer a somewhat smaller  
arrangement because the 175 starts to lose its shape as you furl it.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 10/17/2012 1:23:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rbeytagh at gmail.com writes:

Thank  you Mary and Rummy

This has been most helpful. I don't have the old  Genny so I haven't had any
reference. I am pretty sure this roller works as  you described so I will
dismantle top and bottom rollers to inspect. I  suspect the sail might have
had a cheek-block a foot or two above the tack  that allowed you to run a
line to the tack to give you luff tension. I have  asked Stan to quote on a
new Genny and we will hopefully get this worked  out. BTW would you
recommend a 175% or 150% overlap?

Thanks  again

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 5:04 PM, Mary Lou Troy  <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> 
wrote:

> If you have a groove in the  aluminum tube, it would probably be
> better to get a headsail with a  luff "tape" that fits the groove.
> Otherwise, the sleeve Rummy suggests  is the answer.
>
> Our 1991 175 genoa had a stiff tubing sewn into  the luff which
> allowed the sail to be slid into the groove in the  tube. The sail had
> webbing tabs at the top and bottom which allowed  the sail to be
> stretched along the tube. The tabs were held in place  top and bottom
> with machine screws. Obviously with this unusual set-up  you can only
> put the headsail on the boat with the mast down. The  upside is that
> it was bulletproof in function.
>
> We get  enough tropical storm warnings here on the Chesapeake that we
> finally  decided that we wanted to be able to remove the sail without
> lowering  the mast and went to a Schaefer Snap-Furl system. It
> required  replacing the original luff-tape with the size required by
> the  Schaefer unit. We had a new forestay made a the the same time but
> I  can't remember if it was required whether we just decided that it
>  would be a good tie to replace it.
>
> Stan at General Boats  eventually went to using CDI furlers (which
> have an internal halyard)  on new and recycled R22s.
>
> I don't have a good photo that shows  the parts of the old system, but
> I do have a nice one of it in use and  and an enlarged portion of a
> bigger picture that sort of shows the  lower part of the furler. Both
> are attached at the very bottom of this  message.
>
> Mary Lou
> 1991 Rhodes 22   Fretless
> Rock Hall, MD
>
>
> At 02:23 PM 10/15/2012,  you wrote:
> >I will take a shot at this. It appears that you have  hardware which is
> >newer (replaced at some point and time) than  your hull. The top plastic
> piece
> >is  screwed  together. Remove the screws and you will be able to remove 
it.
>  >Order a  new genny from General Boats and it will come with a sleeve  
which
> >fits over the  aluminum tube. The sail will then be  screwed to the top 
of
> the
> >tube. The bottom  is  usually hand tightened with another short piece of
> line
>  >going through an  eyelet in the sail and attached to the furling drum  
in
> >some manner. Do you have  the original sail? Seeing what  it looks like 
at
> top
> >and bottom would help quite  a  bit. Great pictures. Anything you can
> provide
> >will be  helpful.
> >
> >Rummy
> >
> >
>  >In a message dated 10/15/2012 10:15:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>  >rbeytagh at gmail.com writes:
> >
> >
>  
http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/n44370/DSC_0044_%281280x555%29.j
>  >pg
> >__________________________________________________
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>  >
> >For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list  and
> >archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>  >__________________________________________________
> >
>  >
> >-----
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10/15/12
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--  
Richard
Tel: 828 687 0788
Cell: 828 337  0180
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