Gentlemen,
I've been thinking about going from a 3/4" floor board to a 1/2" board. I  
can tell you that a 1/2" board will flex and give your galley a spongy  
floor. The 3/4" board has no give and makes the R22 a solid craft. I would not  
go thinner just to save a few dollars. Just my opinion.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 5/19/2013 8:41:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
michaelhellyar at icloud.com writes:

Thanks  for the info.  Yes, I'm going to use 1/2. The span is so narrow. I 
will  post a photo of my mock up for comments before cutting the final  
pieces.
Mike Hellyar
sent from my iPad

On May 19, 2013, at 3:17  PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

>  Michael:
> 
> On my boat (1974) the floor boards are made of 3/4  ply and sit directly 
on
> the stringers and cross pieces. The boards are  screwed down to stay in 
place
> but have openings cut out in strategic  places where you might want to get
> down in the bilge to service the  pump, sponge up water or retrieve things
> that slip down between the  cracks. The plywood cut out was then used to 
make
> the hole cover by  bolting pieces of wood around the hole to make a flange
> that the cover  piece just sits in.
> The stringers and cross pieces are all attached to  the hull with epoxy 
and
> fibreglass cloth. There is also a strip the  runs along the join between 
the
> hull and kick plate on the galley side  and the settee and hull on the 
other
> side. This serves as a place to  screw the floorboards down on the outer
> edges. Newer designs might be  different. 
> 
> None of this is original in my case except for  the forward section in 
front
> of the mast but it appears to me that it  was built to copy the original
> construction. When I redo mine I think  I will see if I can get away with
> floor boards that are thinner than  3/4" as these are very heave and
> difficult to manoeuvre in a tight  space.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> 
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>  [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael  Hellyar
> Sent: May-18-13 8:18 AM
> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole  repair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacing cabin  sole. Should it be supported on the bilge frame pieces ? 
If
> so how can  these pieces be removed or should we GFlex epoxy repair over
> them.  Same question on lower bulkhead pieces. They don't appear 
structural.
>  What is best way to support new sole if not on the bilge frame. We  
prefer
> not to tear up the bilge (expensive) but appreciate  recommendation. 
Previous
> owner let this one sit out with water inside  obviously. But it is IMF 
rigged
> and most repair is for the sole and  bilge. Plan to paint hull/bilge 
interior
> with bilge paint. 
>  
> view toward bulkhead
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> 
> Mike Hellyar
> At Sandusky, Ohio
>  sent from my iPad
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