2023-03-29; 09:19:06 EDT
Member Since
2013-07-01
Posts: 430
Cary - I have an ’86 a well with the same motor lift. I rebuilt my rails 2 years ago and should have extended them upward, past the rub rail that traverses the stern. I didn’t and it works as it should. I have a 25 “ shaft Honda 8 that I bought because I has a 12 anp alternator as opposed to the Yamaha 6 amp. (And I got a great deal on it) I don’t think the length of the shaft changes the prop v rudder proximity. With the rudder fully down, there is never an issue. If the rudder is kicked up it can hit the turning prop if you turn hard to portno matter what length shaft you have. I think the 25” shaft is a better choice because you have more flexibility. You might have trouble finding one with a power lift, but I wish I had that feature on my Honda and I’m trying to find a 3rd party supplier for an adaptable electric tilt. One issue I found is that the Honda housing is so large, it hits the stern rail when it is tilted up to the last notch and I can’t quite pull it up enough to reach the last notch on the 'holder upper' pin. As a result, on starboard tack the prop drags in the water with any heal at all. An electric tilt would solve that problem. I also added rollers at the bottom of Stan’s manual lift to take the load off the Starboard sliders in the aluminum rails. The rollers reduce the friction and make lifting and lowering the motor a breeze. BTW Be sure your wooden bracket is solid. Although it looked to be fine, the plywood had rotted and mine broke in 2020 - - - MY YAMAHA went for a final and fatal swim. I built a new bracket and used clear epoxy on the rim os that I can see if there is any rot inside. Ric Sv Dadventure HBNY   Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 IMG_3900.jpeg IMG_7168.jpeg IMG_7233.jpegSee the original archive post