Thanks for all of the Info and viewpoints! Looks like I'm going to have to install some chocks and then try some different anchoring techniques. I'll look through the archives and see if anyone has posted about installing chocks. I guess they will need some sort of backing plate. If anyone knows the size and could let me know that would be great. Thanks again! By the way, [image: DSC_7762.jpg]
had a beautiful sail on Assawoman Bay today!
DSC_7762.jpg
On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 5:25 PM Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the marina
> entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
> chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas.. I
> managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
>> Regards,
>> Rick Lange
>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>> > OK Rick,
> >
> > I’ve given the reasons why it’s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and
> > the bow eye. These are based upon sound physics and they will improve
> the
> > anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME! If you want
> > to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that’s your
> > prerogative. How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
> > Don’t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor
> holding
> > is highly desirable? Good luck
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08 PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Roger,
> > >
> > > The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications. And
> > > complications threaten safety.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Rick Lange
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Rick,
> > >>
> > >> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
> > anchor
> > >> rode thru the carabiner once. After that, you use the boat hook to
> > handle
> > >> the anchor rode. It’s no worse than any other time you need to be on
> > the
> > >> bow handling the anchor.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36 PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi Roger,
> > >>>
> > >>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
> > that
> > >>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
> > weather.
> > >>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
> > rode
> > >>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail. You can do
> > all
> > >>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
> > edge
> > >> of
> > >>> the deck.
> > >>>
> > >>> Regards,
> > >>>
> > >>> Rick Lange
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>roger_pihlaja at msn.com> > >
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single
> bow
> > >>>> cleat you describe on your boat. There are many factors that affect
> > >> how a
> > >>>> boat lies to its anchor. Factors which have a much larger effect on
> > the
> > >>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
> > wind
> > >>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
> > windage (
> > >>>> i.e. Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> > >>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
> > rudder
> > >> up
> > >>>> or down? ). There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> > >>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow. On my boat, these line
> > chocks
> > >>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> > >> stanchions
> > >>>> on the bow pulpit. You should run the anchor rode from the cleat
> thru
> > >> one
> > >>>> or the other of these line chocks. Routing the anchor rode thru
> these
> > >> line
> > >>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer
> to
> > >> the
> > >>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
> > on
> > >> the
> > >>>> anchor rode and the boat. If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> > >> chocks;
> > >>>> then you should add them ASAP. they also help eliminate chafe from
> > dock
> > >>>> lines.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> > >> thru a
> > >>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer. Then, attach the carabineer to
> the
> > >>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> > >> chocks,
> > >>>> and the bow cleat. Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point
> is
> > >>>> about 2 ft closer to the water. This does good things for your
> anchor
> > >>>> scope ratio. An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth. If you route
> your
> > >>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
> > you
> > >>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft. To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> > >> have to
> > >>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode. If you route your anchor
> rode
> > >> thru
> > >>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> > >> point's
> > >>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft. Now, to
> > >> achieve
> > >>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> > >> anchor
> > >>>> rode. This is a significant reduction in your swing radius. In a
> > >> crowded
> > >>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety. Or,
> > you
> > >>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
> > 8.27
> > >>>> scope ratio. With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
> > ratio
> > >>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>>
> > >>>> ________________________________
> > >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> > >>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> > >>>>
> > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >>>> Name: Anchor.heic
> > >>>> Type: image/heic
> > >>>> Size: 22840 bytes
> > >>>> Desc: not available
> > >>>> URL: <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin> > >>>> <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin> > >>>>>>
> > >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
> > single
> > >>>> cleat centered on the bow and I’m trying to figure out the best way
> to
> > >> run
> > >>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit
> stanchions?
> > >> If I
> > >>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn’t seem
> > >> good.
> > >>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That
> puts
> > >> the
> > >>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side.
> I’ve
> > >> read
> > >>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks
> etc.
> > >> but
> > >>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I’ve included an image of
> > the
> > >>>> bow.
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>
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