I should add, that the reason for dry fitting, drilling the holes first, etc was so the installation of each could be done in one operation. The first coat of epoxy I put on the reinforcing plates/boards was slightly thinned with acetone attempting to get more penetration. When the first coat was still green and not fully set, I added the second coat and also wetted out the cabin wall panel. And finally I added the thickened epoxy, reinforcing plate, and chainplate before the other epoxy had cured.

I did learn, that I had to use a lot more of the West System 406 thickener to get the described peanut butter consistency, than I had figured.

So there are a few different ways to approach your particular repair. I'd suggest pulling the hatch out first and then decide.

Good luck.

Todd T.

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
> apart?  ;)
>
> Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
> would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
> how much I want to get into this kind of project.
>
> Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> to this kind of project.
>
> Matt W
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> repair,
> > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> >
> > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> >
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > adequate way.
> > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > rotted
> > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> the
> > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > > backing plate inside.
> > >
> > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> > the
> > > cabintop.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > inside.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello everyone,
> > >>
> > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > made
> > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > going
> > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> > out
> > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > >>
> > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > >> Matt Wilson
> > >> Hornblower II
> > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >
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