Thanks for those great pictures.  I will delay despairing of my boat’s serviceability. ;)

Matt

On Fri, Nov 10, 2023 at 9:23 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm surprised that Slim (Steve A.) hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. He
> consulted with Stan when his lower chainplates were torn completely out of
> the cabin top. My repair was similar to the one Stan suggested to Steve.
>
> I will try to attach the pics he sent me last year.
>
> While Steve had the repairs done at a local boatyard  and did not know what
> material they use for the backing block, I used oak and thickened epoxy as
> the adhesive. I also used a longer tang with three holes instead of two.
>
> INTERESTING NOTE THOUGH: General boats often makes the having pieces of
> standing rigging is bullet proof. But in the case of Steve's accident, the
> forestay broke and I and the whole rig came down.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:00 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Graham
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 8:31 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
> > > thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the
> chainplate
> > > was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really
> could
> > > not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in
> > from
> > > the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin
> > > liner.
> > > After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
> > > only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2"
> screw
> > > which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
> > > solid.
> > >
> > > My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is
> > to
> > > go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so
> > you
> > > can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much
> less
> > > destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from
> > above.
> > > By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
> > > screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the
> > core
> > > is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the
> liner
> > > and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what
> the
> > > deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.
> > >
> > > I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was
> > originally
> > > installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen
> and
> > > probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy
> > mix
> > > and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area
> of
> > > solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders -
> I
> > > can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
> > > washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows
> the
> > > composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need
> > the
> > > upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with
> the
> > > shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
> > > butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.
> > >
> > > I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides
> > but
> > > decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there
> was
> > no
> > > place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
> > > plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of
> > the
> > > cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
> > > that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
> > > dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you
> > all
> > > this so you won't be too confused by the pictures
> > >
> > > So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider
> > this
> > > use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Agile 76
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> > > pulls
> > > > apart?  ;)
> > > >
> > > > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck
> > after
> > > > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> > > plates
> > > > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> > > sure
> > > > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> > > >
> > > > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total
> > newbie
> > > > to this kind of project.
> > > >
> > > > Matt W
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Matt,
> > > > >
> > > > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > > > repair,
> > > > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to
> the
> > > > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Todd T
> > > > >
> > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Matt,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is
> an
> > > > > > adequate way.
> > > > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose,
> wet,
> > > > > rotted
> > > > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core,
> > re-glass
> > > > the
> > > > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut
> > the
> > > > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave
> it
> > > in
> > > > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall
> > and
> > > a
> > > > > > backing plate inside.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> > > away
> > > > > the
> > > > > > cabintop.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Todd T.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what
> > is
> > > > > > inside.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <
> mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward
> > inner
> > > > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past
> > and
> > > > > made
> > > > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif
> what
> > is
> > > > > going
> > > > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> > > water
> > > > > out
> > > > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > > > >> Hornblower II
> > > > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
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