I've done some epoxy and fiberglass work on a wooden kayak in my garage in the winter. I had a space heater running as well as some heat lamps. Some of the heat lamps were too close and ended up causing bubbles to appear under the fiberglass. While that probably won't happen with the centerboard, just know you're better off having them at a reasonable distance. I'd say if the surface feels very warm after they've been on a while, move them away.

As others have suggested, I don't think doing fiberglass work outside during cold weather will work, even with some localized heat. While you can also find epoxy that is designed for lower temps, I'm guessing you would need ambient temperatures of 50 - 60 degrees. You'll want to get the piece warm before you start and maintain the heat for a day or two at least.

Mark



Boston, MA

2000 R22 *When and If*

On Sat, Dec 9, 2023 at 10:00 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
wrote:

> How extensive is the needed work? Also, what ambient temperature are you
> dealing with?
> Heat lamps work for small areas and cool temperatures but for large jobs or
> cold temperatures you might end up with a mess on your hands. Also the time
> to cure would likely be much longer than you would want to hang around even
> if you use fiberglass resin. If you use epoxy, which I think is much
> better, you need about 24 hrs or more for the epoxy to cure. You might be
> able to do the work in the Spring before launch when you get a warm
> day. Except perhaps for minor repairs removal of the centerboard is the
> best option for all of the reasons others have mentioned.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 9, 2023 at 6:05 PM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Another option would be to remove the centerboard from the boat so you
> can
> > do the work inside—much better for control of temperature.  It is bit of
> a
> > pain to remove, but that will give you the opportunity to inspect the
> > entire system and replace the gasket and any other components if
> necessary.
> >
> > I would definitely replace the centerboard line regardless.
> >
> > FYI I have a lot of gasket material available to Rhodie who needs it—just
> > pay shipping.
> >
> > Michael McKay
> > (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Dec 9, 2023, at 5:46 PM, Jeff Kantor <canusmajor54 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a boat in for work in NY State over the winter.  The
> temperature
> > is
> > > maintained for glass work by building a shrink wrap chamber under the
> > boat,
> > > large enough for a heater and work space.  Work can be done in the
> bumper
> > > temp seasons.  Dead winter is still too cold to play.
> > >
> > >> On Sat, Dec 9, 2023 at 3:16 PM Jeff Smith Photo <
> > jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I need to do some fiberglass work on the centerboard this Winter.  The
> > boat
> > >> is on the trailer without clearance for me to get under.  I have seen
> > some
> > >> YouTube videos of getting the boat off the trailer with jacks, but for
> > >> various reasons (space around boat, slope of driveway where it sits,
> > etc.)
> > >> I'm reluctant to do so.
> > >> So I could have my yard use a travel lift to put the boat on
> jack-stands
> > >> high enough  to work under.  The temperature then becomes the
> > >> problem.Everyone I have talked to says wait 'til Spring so the
> > substrate is
> > >> at least 60 degrees F.  But I want to do it sooner, if possible.
> > >> My plan is to warm the centerboard where I need to do the repairs with
> > heat
> > >> lamps on either side and bring it up to temp. I plan to be present
> when
> > >> using the lamps to avoid the possibility of fire...
> > >> Has anyone had experience or tips?
> > >> Or should I just wait until Spring?
> > >> Jeff Smith
> > >> Rhodes 22 RADIANT #101
> > >> 2019/2016
> > >>
> >
>