The Rhodes 22 Discussion Group
ROGER PIHLAJA
Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
2024-04-24; 14:35:48 EDT
Member Since
2002-08-01
Posts: 1422
Peter, The position of the centerboard can be used to fine tune the fore/aft location of the center of lateral resistance of the hull (CLR). The position of the CLR relative to the sail plan’s center of effort (CE) determines whether you have weather, neutral, or lee helm. For example, if you have too much weather helm, rather than reduce your mainsail area, which would slow you down, you can slightly raise the centerboard. This will shift the CLR aft and reduce the weather helm. Once you get used to this fine tuning adjustment, you may find yourself manipulating the centerboard pennant fairly often, especially if you like to go fast. The centerboard blocks on my Rhodes 22 do not have any sort of special mounting tang. The centerboard on early Rhodes 22’s is literally the same hydrofoil as the rudder blade. Note that the centerboard changed when GBI went to the so-called “diamond board” on later model year boats. The block on my centerboard mounts, via the same hole used to raise/lower the rudder blade, to a standard slotted pin shackle, for example a Ronstan, RONST #RF151. As I mentioned previously, I’ve had good luck with a Harken Single Bullet Block, HARKN 082. This block will work with up to 5/16” OD line. The MOC’s are all electro polished 316 SS and Delrin, so corrosion will not be an issue. I would use New England Ropes Sta-Set polyester yacht braid. Sta-Set is available in solid colors, doesn’t stretch, will grip well in the cam cleat, and doesn’t get fuzzy with time. I recommend you get some color that’s different from every other line on your boat. Then, when you tell a newby guest to “haul in on the red line by the companionway hatch”, there will be no confusion. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 1977 Sanford, MI Sent from my iPhoneSee the original archive post
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