Thanks Roger,
Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean up and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of weeks. Patrick

On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
> with minimal disassembly:
>
> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move the
> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>
> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb cleaner
> dripping out of the needle valve.
>
> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off any
> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the needle
> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the fuel
> line inlet.
>
> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>
> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>
> A compression test of 110 psi isn’t great.  But, the engine should still
> run.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Roger, et. al.,
> >
> > Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
> dripping
> > from carb intake and smoking some.
> > I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
> under
> > the hood is pristine clean.
> >
> > Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
> > shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> > dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
> out
> > also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and
> my
> > wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> > culprit.
> >
> > I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
> > oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
> old
> > tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
> > not an issue.
> >
> > So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
> > with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
> > already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
> > the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
> > might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
> it
> > is still stuck.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Patrick,
> >>
> >> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
> >> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
> will
> >> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> PBR
> >> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>
> >> Thanks Roger,
> >> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
> might
> >> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
> >> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
> >> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> >> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
> with
> >> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years
> ago
> >> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
> guessing I
> >> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
> in
> >> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
> >> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
> >>
> >> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
> >> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
> >>
> >> Patrick
> >>
> >>
> >> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>
> >>> I’ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
> the
> >>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
> >>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
> >>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> >>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
> >> would
> >>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> >>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> >>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> >>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
> >> dry.
> >>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
> rings.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
> >>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> >>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> >>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> >>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> >>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
> >> engine
> >>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
> compression.
> >>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
> If
> >>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
> >>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> >>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
> >>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ½ the
> >>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> >>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
> crank
> >> it
> >>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
> the
> >>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
> and
> >>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
> don't
> >>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
> >>> rings.
> >>>>
> >>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> >>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
> >>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
> >>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
> >> to
> >>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
> >>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> >> However, I
> >>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> >> clogged.
> >>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
> verify
> >>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >>>>
> >>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
> would
> >>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
> engine
> >>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >>>>
> >>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> >>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
> >> the
> >>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
> air
> >>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> >> become
> >>> saturated with oil.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> >>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
> stuck)
> >>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> >>> combustion path.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >>>> I’d rather be sailing :~)
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>> PBR
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Hello all.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> >> years.
> >>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> >>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
> always
> >>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> >>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
> bit
> >>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> >>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
> the
> >>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> >>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
> >>> but not constant at all speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> >> (clean
> >>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
> >> or
> >>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
> valve?* (
> >>> but runs pretty good)
> >>>>
> >>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
> >> to
> >>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
> >> than
> >>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> >>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> >> cowling
> >>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >>>>
> >>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> >>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >>>>
> >>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> >>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
> sure
> >> of
> >>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>