Patrick,

I’m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04 AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Roger,
> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
> like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean up
> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of weeks.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
>> with minimal disassembly:
>> 
>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move the
>> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>> 
>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb cleaner
>> dripping out of the needle valve.
>> 
>> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
>> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off any
>> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the needle
>> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the fuel
>> line inlet.
>> 
>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>> 
>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>> 
>> A compression test of 110 psi isn’t great.  But, the engine should still
>> run.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Roger, et. al.,
>>> 
>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
>> dripping
>>> from carb intake and smoking some.
>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
>> under
>>> the hood is pristine clean.
>>> 
>>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
>>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
>> out
>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and
>> my
>>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
>>> culprit.
>>> 
>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
>>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
>> old
>>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
>>> not an issue.
>>> 
>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
>> it
>>> is still stuck.
>>> 
>>> Patrick
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
>> will
>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> PBR
>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks Roger,
>>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
>> might
>>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
>>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
>> with
>>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years
>> ago
>>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
>> guessing I
>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
>> in
>>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>>>> 
>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I’ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
>> the
>>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
>>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
>>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
>>>> would
>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
>>>> dry.
>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
>> rings.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
>>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
>>>> engine
>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
>> compression.
>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
>> If
>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ½ the
>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
>>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
>> crank
>>>> it
>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
>> the
>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
>> and
>>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
>> don't
>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
>>>>> rings.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
>>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
>>>> to
>>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
>>>> However, I
>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
>>>> clogged.
>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
>> verify
>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
>> would
>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
>> engine
>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
>>>> the
>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
>> air
>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
>>>> become
>>>>> saturated with oil.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
>> stuck)
>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>>>>> combustion path.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>>>> I’d rather be sailing :~)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>>> PBR
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hello all.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
>>>> years.
>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
>> always
>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
>> bit
>>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
>>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
>> the
>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
>>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
>>>> (clean
>>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
>>>> or
>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
>> valve?* (
>>>>> but runs pretty good)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
>>>> to
>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
>>>> than
>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
>>>> cowling
>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
>> sure
>>>> of
>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>