Roger,
Success.  It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.  Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix things.  Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.  Now the only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression testing, this time the electric start is dead.  Appears to be a stuck relay which is a part not available anywhere.  Starts easy enough by pulling the rope for now.  I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess. Thanks for your wise advice.
Patrick

On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> I’m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the
> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04 AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Roger,
> > Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
> > like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean
> up
> > and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of
> weeks.
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> >> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Patrick,
> >>
> >> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
> >> with minimal disassembly:
> >>
> >> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move
> the
> >> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
> >>
> >> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb
> cleaner
> >> dripping out of the needle valve.
> >>
> >> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
> >> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off
> any
> >> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the
> needle
> >> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the
> fuel
> >> line inlet.
> >>
> >> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
> >>
> >> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
> >>
> >> A compression test of 110 psi isn’t great.  But, the engine should still
> >> run.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Roger, et. al.,
> >>>
> >>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
> >> dripping
> >>> from carb intake and smoking some.
> >>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
> >> under
> >>> the hood is pristine clean.
> >>>
> >>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
> >>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> >>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
> >> out
> >>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil
> and
> >> my
> >>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> >>> culprit.
> >>>
> >>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in
> some
> >>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
> >> old
> >>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are
> probably
> >>> not an issue.
> >>>
> >>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
> >>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be
> fixed
> >>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I
> have
> >>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
> >>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
> >> it
> >>> is still stuck.
> >>>
> >>> Patrick
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
> >>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
> >> will
> >>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> PBR
> >>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks Roger,
> >>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
> >> might
> >>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and
> my
> >>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this
> time
> >>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> >>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
> >> with
> >>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35
> years
> >> ago
> >>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
> >> guessing I
> >>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
> >> in
> >>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8
> cyl
> >>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
> >>>>
> >>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
> >>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I’ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
> >> the
> >>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the
> oil
> >>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in
> the
> >>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> >>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
> >>>> would
> >>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> >>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> >>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> >>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
> >>>> dry.
> >>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
> >> rings.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it
> on
> >>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> >>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> >>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> >>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> >>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
> >>>> engine
> >>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
> >> compression.
> >>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
> >> If
> >>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage
> issues.
> >>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> >>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck
> piston
> >>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ½ the
> >>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> >>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
> >> crank
> >>>> it
> >>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
> >> the
> >>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
> >> and
> >>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
> >> don't
> >>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck
> piston
> >>>>> rings.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> >>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase
> breather
> >>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of
> the
> >>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never
> needed
> >>>> to
> >>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I
> doubt
> >>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> >>>> However, I
> >>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> >>>> clogged.
> >>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
> >> verify
> >>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ________________________________
> >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> >>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> >>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Patrick,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
> >> would
> >>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
> >> engine
> >>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> >>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out
> of
> >>>> the
> >>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
> >> air
> >>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> >>>> become
> >>>>> saturated with oil.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using
> the
> >>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
> >> stuck)
> >>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> >>>>> combustion path.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >>>>>> I’d rather be sailing :~)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
> Of
> >>>>> PBR
> >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> >>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> >>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Hello all.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> >>>> years.
> >>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> >>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
> >> always
> >>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> >>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
> >> bit
> >>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke
> at
> >>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
> >> the
> >>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it
> again.
> >>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me
> curious
> >>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> >>>> (clean
> >>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent
> clog*
> >>>> or
> >>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
> >> valve?* (
> >>>>> but runs pretty good)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I
> hate
> >>>> to
> >>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
> >>>> than
> >>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> >>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> >>>> cowling
> >>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> >>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> >>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
> >> sure
> >>>> of
> >>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Patrick
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>
>