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2024-06-29; 18:14:46 EDT
Member Since
2002-08-01
Posts: 1422
Patrick, I’m glad I was able to help. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 1978 Sanford, MI Sent from my iPhoneSee the original archive post
> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:14 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote: > > Roger, > Success. It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path. > Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix > things. Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too. Now the > only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression > testing, this time the electric start is dead. Appears to be a stuck relay > which is a part not available anywhere. Starts easy enough by pulling > the rope for now. I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess. > Thanks for your wise advice. > Patrick > > >> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> >> wrote: >> >> Patrick, >> >> I’m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps. Yes, you have to remove the >> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> 1978. Sanford, MI >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04 AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Thanks Roger, >>> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks >>> like only two bolts to pull the carb off. So i will attempt to clean >> up >>> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of >> weeks. >>> Patrick >>> >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Patrick, >>>> >>>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out >>>> with minimal disassembly: >>>> >>>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor. Gently move >> the >>>> float. It should move several mm with little resistance. >>>> >>>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet. You should see carb >> cleaner >>>> dripping out of the needle valve. >>>> >>>> Remove the float and needle valve. Be careful not to lose the needle >>>> valve seat seal. Inspect the male part of the needle valve. Clean off >> any >>>> residual deposits with carb cleaner. Spray carb cleaner up into the >> needle >>>> valve seat passage. You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the >> fuel >>>> line inlet. >>>> >>>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line. >>>> >>>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil. >>>> >>>> A compression test of 110 psi isn’t great. But, the engine should still >>>> run. >>>> >>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>> 1978. Sanford, MI >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Roger, et. al., >>>>> >>>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil >>>> dripping >>>>> from carb intake and smoking some. >>>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything >>>> under >>>>> the hood is pristine clean. >>>>> >>>>> Oil was definitely overfilled. I drained out about a pint and it still >>>>> shows nearly full. Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the >>>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level. What I drained >>>> out >>>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil >> and >>>> my >>>>> wife said it smelled of gas. So, stuck float is or was a most likely >>>>> culprit. >>>>> >>>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in >> some >>>>> oil but could not get it to change. Seems low but could be my 40 year >>>> old >>>>> tester and me trying to get a good push seal. So, my rings are >> probably >>>>> not an issue. >>>>> >>>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart >>>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in. It may be >> fixed >>>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil. I >> have >>>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc.. I >>>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case >>>> it >>>>> is still stuck. >>>>> >>>>> Patrick >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> >>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Patrick, >>>>>> >>>>>> I would check the oil level 1st. On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull >>>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression. That way, the starter >>>> will >>>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM. >>>>>> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>>>> 1978 Sanford, MI >>>>>> ________________________________ >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of >>>> PBR >>>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com> >>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM >>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> >>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks Roger, >>>>>> I will try all of these suggestions. I'll keep you all posted but it >>>> might >>>>>> take me a while to find the time. I do use just ethanol free gas and >> my >>>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this >> time >>>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I >>>>>> probably have skipped that a few times. I have a compression tester >>>> with >>>>>> the rubber insert. Came with a tune up kit I picked up about 35 >> years >>>> ago >>>>>> so probably american made and still working... To do this I am >>>> guessing I >>>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester >>>> in >>>>>> place? both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 >> cyl >>>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine). >>>>>> >>>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some >>>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there. >>>>>> >>>>>> Patrick >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi Patrick, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I’ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out >>>> the >>>>>>> carburetor. Check the engine oil level with the dip stick. If the >> oil >>>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in >> the >>>>>>> carburetor. High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to >>>>>>> contaminate the engine oil. Eventually, the diluted engine oil level >>>>>> would >>>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor, >>>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip. A sticky float would be >>>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs. I always >>>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs >>>>>> dry. >>>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston >>>> rings. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>>>>> 1978 Sanford, MI >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi Patrick, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000. I use it >> on >>>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB. If you have a compression tester, you can quickly >>>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves. The factory >>>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold. If your >>>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and >>>>>>> valves are OK. If the compression values are low; then, squirt some >>>>>> engine >>>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the >>>> compression. >>>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings. >>>> If >>>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage >> issues. >>>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild. >>>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck >> piston >>>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up. Drain out about ½ the >>>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil >>>>>>> Treatment. Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently >>>> crank >>>>>> it >>>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight. The next day, start >>>> the >>>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes. Then, shut it down >>>> and >>>>>>> change the oil. Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings. I >>>> don't >>>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck >> piston >>>>>>> rings. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the >>>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side. The crankcase >> breather >>>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of >> the >>>>>>> engine. I've never had my breather cover off because I've never >> needed >>>>>> to >>>>>>> get in there. However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I >> doubt >>>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged. >>>>>> However, I >>>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be >>>>>> clogged. >>>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to >>>> verify >>>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens. Good Luck! >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>>>>>> 1978 Sanford, MI >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> ________________________________ >>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf >> of >>>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> >>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM >>>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> >>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Patrick, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you >>>> would >>>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the >>>> engine >>>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. >>>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out >> of >>>>>> the >>>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the >>>> air >>>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can >>>>>> become >>>>>>> saturated with oil. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using >> the >>>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not >>>> stuck) >>>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the >>>>>>> combustion path. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mike >>>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >>>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY >>>>>>>> I’d rather be sailing :~) >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf >> Of >>>>>>> PBR >>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM >>>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hello all. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl. that has been mostly sitting for a few >>>>>> years. >>>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter >>>>>>> untouched (2018). Since then I have not used it on the water but >>>> always >>>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully >>>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a >>>> bit >>>>>>> with the water hose. Always started easy and ran good. Some smoke >> at >>>>>>> first but not enough to concern me. This time as I was about to put >>>> the >>>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it >> again. >>>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me >> curious >>>>>>> but not constant at all speeds. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake >>>>>> (clean >>>>>>> golden oil). Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent >> clog* >>>>>> or >>>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings. Any thoughts? *Stuck >>>> valve?* ( >>>>>>> but runs pretty good) >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I >> hate >>>>>> to >>>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less >>>>>> than >>>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look. Hoping for a miracle >>>>>>> solution. Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the >>>>>> cowling >>>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the >>>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try >>>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something. Not >>>> sure >>>>>> of >>>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Patrick >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>
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