Patrick,

I’m glad I was able to help.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:14 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Roger,
> Success.  It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.
> Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix
> things.  Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.  Now the
> only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression
> testing, this time the electric start is dead.  Appears to be a stuck relay
> which is a part not available anywhere.  Starts easy enough by pulling
> the rope for now.  I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess.
> Thanks for your wise advice.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> I’m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the
>> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04 AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks Roger,
>>> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
>>> like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean
>> up
>>> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of
>> weeks.
>>> Patrick
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
>>>> with minimal disassembly:
>>>> 
>>>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move
>> the
>>>> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>>>> 
>>>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb
>> cleaner
>>>> dripping out of the needle valve.
>>>> 
>>>> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
>>>> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off
>> any
>>>> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the
>> needle
>>>> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the
>> fuel
>>>> line inlet.
>>>> 
>>>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>>>> 
>>>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>>>> 
>>>> A compression test of 110 psi isn’t great.  But, the engine should still
>>>> run.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger, et. al.,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
>>>> dripping
>>>>> from carb intake and smoking some.
>>>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
>>>> under
>>>>> the hood is pristine clean.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
>>>>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
>>>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
>>>> out
>>>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil
>> and
>>>> my
>>>>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
>>>>> culprit.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in
>> some
>>>>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
>>>> old
>>>>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are
>> probably
>>>>> not an issue.
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
>>>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be
>> fixed
>>>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I
>> have
>>>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
>>>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
>>>> it
>>>>> is still stuck.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Patrick
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
>>>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
>>>> will
>>>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> PBR
>>>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks Roger,
>>>>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
>>>> might
>>>>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and
>> my
>>>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this
>> time
>>>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
>>>>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
>>>> with
>>>>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35
>> years
>>>> ago
>>>>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
>>>> guessing I
>>>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
>>>> in
>>>>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8
>> cyl
>>>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
>>>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I’ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
>>>> the
>>>>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the
>> oil
>>>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in
>> the
>>>>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
>>>>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
>>>>>> would
>>>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
>>>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
>>>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
>>>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
>>>>>> dry.
>>>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
>>>> rings.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it
>> on
>>>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
>>>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
>>>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
>>>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
>>>>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
>>>>>> engine
>>>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
>>>> compression.
>>>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
>>>> If
>>>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage
>> issues.
>>>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
>>>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck
>> piston
>>>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ½ the
>>>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
>>>>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
>>>> crank
>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
>>>> the
>>>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
>>>> and
>>>>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
>>>> don't
>>>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck
>> piston
>>>>>>> rings.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
>>>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase
>> breather
>>>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of
>> the
>>>>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never
>> needed
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I
>> doubt
>>>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
>>>>>> However, I
>>>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
>>>>>> clogged.
>>>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
>>>> verify
>>>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
>> of
>>>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
>>>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Patrick,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
>>>> would
>>>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
>>>> engine
>>>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
>>>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out
>> of
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
>>>> air
>>>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
>>>>>> become
>>>>>>> saturated with oil.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using
>> the
>>>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
>>>> stuck)
>>>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>>>>>>> combustion path.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>>>>>> I’d rather be sailing :~)
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
>> Of
>>>>>>> PBR
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>>>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Hello all.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
>>>>>> years.
>>>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>>>>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
>>>> always
>>>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>>>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
>>>> bit
>>>>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke
>> at
>>>>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
>>>> the
>>>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it
>> again.
>>>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me
>> curious
>>>>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
>>>>>> (clean
>>>>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent
>> clog*
>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
>>>> valve?* (
>>>>>>> but runs pretty good)
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I
>> hate
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
>>>>>> than
>>>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>>>>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
>>>>>> cowling
>>>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
>>>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>>>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
>>>> sure
>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>