Thanks Mike. I took both the old and new fork to the local machine shop. The owner acknowledged that 316 SS is a difficult metal to machine. They said ,the sleeve should not be a problem. They also mentioned that the 2 holes drilled through the fork were off center. It is going to take about two weeks so I shall see how it goes. Someone told me that Stan out sourced the booms with the universal joint attached.
I am going to keep your parts list. I may need to use it in the future. So thanks again Mike. This seems to be more of a common problem than I realized with the Rhodes 22.
Just for The List info ,I did try the heating with my plumbing torch to see if it might break the grip of the sleeve.  It was a no go , so I took it to the pros at the machine shop.

Cary Tolbert

On Wed, Aug 6, 2025 at 5:51 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cary,
>
> I replaced my gooseneck last year after it failed.  I strongly recommend
> upgrading the parts to the "heavy duty" versions available from Dwyer.
> There is a sleeve inside the boom that is permanently attached--I assume it
> is welded in place.  Here is what I wrote to this list last year about that
> project:
>
>
> I rebuilt my gooseneck recently using Peter's excellent video for
> guidance, and got the following parts from Dyer:
>
> Qty     Part No Description
> 2       DH3143  U Bracket, Heavy
> 1       DH334           Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", L
> 2       CR1             Ring, Rigging, 3/4" x .048"
> 2       CLP-4-0.984     Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/8"
>
> I got the required stainless steel bolts from Ace:
>
> 1                       2-1/2" x 3/8" hex bolt with 1" thread (no nut is
> required. I bought 1 extra for a spare)
> 1                       1-1/2" x 5/16" button head bolt with 5/16" nylon
> lock nut
>
> I didn't have the tools needed to accurately drill a 3/16" hole in the
> 2-1/2" hex bolt, so I had a local machinist do it for me.  If you currently
> have two through bolts holding the old gooseneck fork, you will actually
> only need one of them to secure the 2-1/2" bolt, which makes the process a
> bit easier.  (My boom only had one retaining bolt.)
>
> Good luck with your project!
>
>
> Mike McKay
> s/v Liber (2006/2018)
> Allatoona Lake
> Acworth, GA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2025 8:15 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
>
> I'm guessing corrosion.  I can think of no reason the fork shaft would be
> glued into the sleeve. When I disassembled my gooseneck, the sleeve stayed
> attached to the boom, and the fork came out without resistance (which is
> why I never mentioned the sleeve).
>
> The machinist might be able to supply you with a new sleeve.
>
> --Peter
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2025-08-05, at 07:54:46 EDT, Cary Tolbert wrote:
> >
> > I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.
> After
> > receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to
> replace this
> > bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I actually
> soaked it
> > overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have seen Peter's
> video which
> > makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by corrosion or some sort
> of
> > epoxy?
> > Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that
> would
> > break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your
> fix?
> > I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes
> from the
> > old fork.
> > Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this
> delima.
> >
> > Cary Tolbert
> > S/V Whisper '86
> > Claytor Lake ,VA
> >
>
>
>
>