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ROGER PIHLAJA



Shortening Sail

2025-08-07; 02:32:40 EDT

Member Since

2002-08-01

Posts: 1418

Hi Paul,

Welcome aboard!  I too am a member of the Rhodes 22 standard mainsail crowd.  We are a tiny minority, the majority favoring the IMF mainsail.  As far as I can tell, the numbers on the sails don't correspond with the hull ID numbers.  For example, my Rhodes 22 has hull ID number: GBX220046D76.  GBX22 refers to the manufacturer and model.  0046 is the sequential hull number.  D76 means my hull was built in the 4th month (A, B, C, D = April), 1976.  The hull ID number should be stamped into the starboard corner of the transom, just above the rub rail.  Your boat's title should also have the hull ID number on it.

The boat sails best if the rub rails are kept out of the water.  It's like a big planning dingy in that respect.  The boat develops weather helm as it heels.  To counter this, it's best to reef the mainsail 1st to keep the center of pressure as far forward as possible.  I'm surprised to hear a boat as new as 1990 didn't come with any provision for reefing the mainsail.  The boom is not set up for roller reefing.  You should consider adding 2 jiffy reef points + the associated hardware.  On my boat, each reef point shortens sail by about 1/3 the mainsail area.  If your estimate of 12-15 mph is correct; then, yes, that is about the point where you need the 1st reef in the mainsail.

You will probably be better off having a local canvas shop make your bimini top, pop top enclosure, and boom room.  All of these things really need to be custom fitted to an individual boat.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976  Sanford, MI
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